This recipe for Gravlax with Aquanaria sea bass is one of the proposals presented by John Regefalk, research chef at the prestigious BCC Innovation, during his presentation at the CIA’s annual conference, WOF 2023. John is of Swedish origin, and began his career working with traditional French and Swedish cuisine and training in some of Sweden’s most prestigious restaurants. During his more than 20 years of experience, he has worked in such renowned international restaurants as Noma (Copenhagen), RyuGin (Tokyo) and Metamorphosis (Rome).
Aquanaria is the oldest marine aquaculture company in Spain, specializing in large gourmet sea bass. Our more than 50 years of work have given us the experience and knowledge necessary to cultivate sea bass with excellent gastronomic qualities. In order to add value to our chefs, we invest a large part of our resources in research and innovation, both internally and through collaboration agreements with different entities. An example of this is the collaboration agreement we have signed with the Basque Culinary Center, as a result of which the Aquanaria sea bass technical guide was developed.
GRAVLAX
The word gravlax comes from Swedish, and is composed of the words “grav”, which means buried, and “lax”, which means salmon. This explains the name given to the preservation technique used by fishermen during the Middle Ages, which consisted of burying fish, mainly salmon, underground or in sand, with salt, dill, pine shoots and other ingredients. These conditions favored the development of a lacto-fermentation process that preserved the fish.
In this Aquanaria sea bass gravlax recipe, John applies in a very harmonious and coherent way the principles of an ancestral technique, such as gravlax, to new ingredients, such as pine buds and lacto-fermented mushrooms. A great example of how to draw inspiration from tradition and authenticity when conceptualizing new proposals aligned with consumer trends and demands.
METHOD
Fermented Mushrooms:
- Clean the fresh mushrooms thoroughly to remove any dirt. Roughly chop them into your desired size.
- Calculate 2% of the total weight of mushrooms to determine the amount of sea salt needed.
- In a bowl, mix the chopped mushrooms with the calculated amount of sea salt, crushed juniper berries, angelica seeds, and crushed rosehip berries. Massage and squeeze the mushrooms to help release their natural juices and evenly distribute the ingredients.
- Add the Lactobacillus plantarum starter culture to the bowl. Open a commercial probiotic capsule and sprinkle the contents over the mushrooms.
- Pack the salted and inoculated mushrooms tightly into a clean glass jar or fermentation vessel.
- Use a weight or a small plastic bag filled with water to press down the mushrooms, ensuring they are fully submerged in their own juices.
- Cover the jar with a lid or cloth to allow gases to escape while preventing contaminants from entering.
- Store the jar at room temperature, away from direct sunlight, for 3 days. Check the mushrooms regularly to ensure they remain submerged.
- Transfer the lactofermented mushrooms to the refrigerator to slow down the fermentation process. The flavor will continue to develop over time.
- Leave to ferment in the refrigerator for 1 more month.
Gravlax:
- Spread the salt evenly over the seabass surface, making sure it is covered on all sides.
- Put the seabass into a vacuum bag and add the leafy herbs, covering the fillet on both sides.
- Seal the bag tightly and refrigerate for 2-3 days, turning the seabass daily for even curing.
- Open the bag and take out the seabass, scrape off excess salt and herbs.
- Spread a layer of chopped lactofermented mushrooms on top of the fillet and re-seal in the vacuum bag. Leave for another 24 h in the refrigerator.
- Slice the gravlax and reserve.
Skyr Sauce:
- In a bowl, mix the Skyr with a pinch of salt and the finely crushed juniper berries until well combined.
- Place the Skyr mixture in the refrigerator to keep it cold.
- In a separate small bowl, season the malt syrup with a tablespoon of the liquid from the lactofermented mushrooms.
Fermented Pine Shoots:
- Rinse the pine shoots thoroughly under cold water to remove any dirt or debris.
- Weigh the pine shoots to determine their total weight.
- Calculate 5% of the total weight of the pine shoots.
- Prepare a brine by dissolving the calculated amount of sea salt in non-chlorinated water equal to the weight of the pine shoots. Make sure the salt is fully dissolved.
- Place the clean pine shoots in a vacuum bag.
- Pour the prepared salt brine over the pine shoots. Seal the bag.
- Store the bag at room temperature, away from direct sunlight, for 1 week.
- Transfer the fermented pine shoots to the refrigerator to slow down the fermentation process. The flavor will continue to develop over time.
- Leave to ferment for 1 more month.
- Taste the pine shoots after the fermentation period. They should have a tangy and slightly sour flavor.
PLATING
Plate the sliced gravlax with a spoonful of lactofermented mushrooms. Spoon the skyr on the side, drizzle the malt syrup on top of the skyr. Garnish with pine shoots and leafy herbs.